Its Brian here.
These keybords are a pain, and my brain seems to be less adaptable than Leannas so I am forgoing some punctuation.
Yep, the lady got her mule. We had a great day hiking and riding in the hills above Dades gorge. It was beautiful and restful and tiring too. We stopped under a lone tree next to some nomad caves and our guide Mohammed made tea. We were well away from it all.
The next day Leanna was well into a head and throat cold and we did a fairly relatively short three hour bus ride to Ouzarzate. But forst we had to get to he bus stop, which consisted of sitting in the shqde for about an hour by our hotel until a minibus came along. We had a good chat with Mohammed who gave us a copy of the 2010 Michelin Routard guide for Morocco... super since we left our Lonely Planet in our hotel room in Er Rachidia.
We had a relaxed evening in Ouzarzate and bought some good cold drugs for L. Then the next day, yesterday, we did another loooong day on the bus. First we headed over through the Atlas montains to Marrakech. Beautiful scenery!! We bought some Argan herbal soaps fro, a womens cooperative. When we got to the Marrakech bus station a guy guessed where we were headed and led us to the next bus. The ticket seller tried to grossly overcharge and the gave us about the right price when we asked where the general ticket office was. The the guy who led us to he bus asked us for money and I gave him the two Driham I had in my pocket. He threw them down insulted. We were lezss than impressed with each other at this point. leanna fished out some more Dirham and he left fiarly satisfied. This was sooooo different from most of our interactions in Morocco where people have been very generous of spirit.
The next bus took about three hours to Essouaria on the Atlantic coast. Its a beautiful city with an intact fortress and friendly folk. The oceqn is so big after being in so much dryness!!!! Its more touristy than most of where we have been so there is more of a divide between visitors and Moroccans. This morning I went for an early walk out of the tourist zone for a cup of the excellent coffee served in so many road side cafes. The touristy stuff is fun, but so is watching people walking to work and seeing the garbage pick up system in action.